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Asia Nyembo revisite le textile africain, en focalisant sa recherche sur une fibre végétale, le raphia. Sa démarche expérimentale, profonde et réfléchie, la mène à analyser cette matière, sa texture, son potentiel colorant, par des expériences rigoureuses, à l’image d’une recherche scientifique, notifiant systématiquement toutes traces de ses démarches.
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Le pagne Wax devient le terrain de ses expériences, mettant à mal ce textile, d’origine étrangère mais qui s’est imposé dans la culture congolaise au détriment des ‘velours’ traditionnels.
Le processus de déconstruction par découpages et de reconstruction par assemblages la mène à altérer ce textile, à le déstructurer, à modifier sa texture, sa souplesse et son apparence. Par l’action de l’eau et du feu, la fibre du raphia devient matière tinctoriale au nuancier élaboré et un pigment à base de cendre. Le colorant expérimental est mis en œuvre sur le en coton qui disparaît, occulté sous les couches ocres-orange de la teinture au raphia. Il est utilisé pour imprégner de motifs rythmiques les tissus, créant de manière empirique, des tableaux textiles.
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Béatrice Pennant
Historienne d'art
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